http://www.eloisefuss.com/865004006353 daily 0.75 2016-03-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/56cf2c4422482e3c14ce70f9/1458236806236-ARX9N8DUXJE0N9C0VMA9/125A9968-2.jpg i http://www.eloisefuss.com/798817030644 daily 0.75 2016-05-24 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464054536291-3S8984HXA9NXVOVY9TO0/000001edit.jpg People https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464054536291-3S8984HXA9NXVOVY9TO0/000001edit.jpg People https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464054525489-72H7225TH7WWQSYKFICF/000003edit3.jpg People https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464054551409-ZQKPY7AR1IRE7ODUHQ3P/000005.JPG People https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464054583066-6KDWJJBML5C4DNQLZSVQ/000006+copy.jpg People https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464054583799-RGRF7D938B28L07W0VRV/1995_9.JPG People https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464054607574-A9PQWGBJ8M5BUSNUKP4W/1995_10.JPG People https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464054592774-FCOFFAQP4RF478HU5YD9/tumblr_o6p79mZ7w21sxov5ko1_1280.jpg People http://www.eloisefuss.com/places daily 0.75 2023-05-31 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464247379056-CP7HYRV51KK2ECW4ILL0/Send2.jpg Places Eyre Peninsula https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464247379056-CP7HYRV51KK2ECW4ILL0/Send2.jpg Places Eyre Peninsula https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464060957989-P0T98W2RNUMW466L9K2J/tumblr_ney9ur4DhU1sxov5ko1_1280.jpg Places South NZ https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464060960104-NJPPP1EMTQNQ4BH3CNU9/tumblr_ney9ur4DhU1sxov5ko2_1280.jpg Places https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464060967714-DH8CH7KKOVATFOQ4A46A/tumblr_ney9ur4DhU1sxov5ko3_1280.jpg Places https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464246985766-F1YG7G3RKT16R2H3GC5Q/Send2.jpg Places https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464060971809-TZ1RH37A91WKW8I8N41I/tumblr_ney9ur4DhU1sxov5ko5_1280.jpg Places https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464060983272-9LTC90HZ01WUWBXRJ0SI/tumblr_ney9ur4DhU1sxov5ko6_1280.jpg Places https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464247121575-KG1T1K1XFCH56L1QMROA/Send2.jpg Places https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464060983804-JNDWOF02M8NOG2IQH41F/tumblr_ney9ur4DhU1sxov5ko7_1280.jpg Places https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464060917954-K0ISJK2GMOCEZAZ3ETI0/tumblr_ney9ur4DhU1sxov5ko1_1280.jpg Places https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464060993661-2O0EFE3D9ZCE9CJDL438/tumblr_ney9ur4DhU1sxov5ko8_r1_1280.jpg Places https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464060990833-0XTJ4RYDN87PXHOTW5BT/tumblr_ney9ur4DhU1sxov5ko9_r3_1280.jpg Places https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464236748296-I98B95F1U686FWFF3RRT/000001.jpg Places Mt Lofty Botanic Gardens https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1465901334312-LNDHVYYZWD70SSEM727G/R001-007.jpg Places https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464236878714-2PMTLIF7T01OHDW2FNEB/tumblr_nbl0lz1PnP1sxov5ko1_1280.jpg Places Near Quorn https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464234127358-335DBCT8VISNVHFR60NZ/000001+copy.jpg Places Mid North, South Australia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1465901968659-BM0T6IK5B0K67IZU37KH/000006done.jpg Places https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464236779312-VNLKJZGOZ0DSAUQTV0OY/F1980007.jpg Places Hungary - 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These two engineering students from Mumbai were taking part in the Australian Mars Society's annual expedition, in the 'Mars-like environment' of Arkaroola, Northern Flinders Ranges. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464259943984-VZAKYUCXL8TKOBS2NW2J/send6-Recovered.jpg Ranges Flinders Ranges, SA / Adnyamathanha Country *Why astronauts? These two engineering students from Mumbai were taking part in the Australian Mars Society's annual expedition, in the 'Mars-like environment' of Arkaroola, Northern Flinders Ranges. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464076059158-GFPCGLAUCN205I1JVPWH/tumblr_n8pagrC6lc1sxov5ko3_1280.jpg Ranges https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464076106826-XA00IJ9LIOTGS5RF80D0/tumblr_na60qlrR191sxov5ko5_r1_1280.jpg Ranges https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464231298729-V1ETFF82PJRFV0VBKG7R/tumblr_mz876o1t1z1sxov5ko7_1280.jpg Ranges https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464076068485-E31EOUOMLZY1PX2Y53HG/tumblr_n8pagrC6lc1sxov5ko5_1280.jpg Ranges https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464076070175-X4RCK31A4M4HCO0ITRQI/tumblr_n8pagrC6lc1sxov5ko6_1280.jpg Ranges 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https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1691290961626-6FKO5IMFGYO9MQ4PS2CO/IMG_5429.JPG Ranges https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1691290975635-0G3RIUZEQ734UMX1C918/IMG_5422.JPG Ranges http://www.eloisefuss.com/whereon-island daily 0.75 2016-06-16 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464234132591-2EP07BMXHNN2WWS1YGBM/000009.jpg Island Weeroona Island For two years I lived on this quiet and oddly beautiful tidal island in South Australia's Spencer Gulf. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464234132591-2EP07BMXHNN2WWS1YGBM/000009.jpg Island Weeroona Island For two years I lived on this quiet and oddly beautiful tidal island in South Australia's Spencer Gulf. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464234187746-ZMCOS0ATY9UX9D668K6E/000009edit.jpg Island 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Second Valley, SA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1691288884641-XFWSNKO2SVE53VI9UK6K/IMG_2668.JPG Shoots Vege Threads. 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Near Carrickalinga, SA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464237744833-9DMOM30A68K1A0T8RK6L/tumblr_njupbp1T6T1sxov5ko5_1280.jpg Shoots Julie White. Port Elliot, SA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464237720837-FNP2QQI7CFDRPNOH53EI/tumblr_njupbp1T6T1sxov5ko2_1280.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464237735207-V6RF3L1DDH9WRHMOHXXD/tumblr_njupbp1T6T1sxov5ko4_1280.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464237722647-M3JNVXOG1KMSZ0BOSALY/tumblr_njupbp1T6T1sxov5ko1_1280.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464237749348-ENFCGUYW3R3U0QBKTZUB/tumblr_njupbp1T6T1sxov5ko7_1280.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464237726669-9CY1PME8G2AOMUDJXZ67/tumblr_njupbp1T6T1sxov5ko3_1280.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464836720157-3D3ISQ6UCZM9RFBLB0HG/swim1.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464237748151-265Q3XELMKYSH30MGNPY/tumblr_njupbp1T6T1sxov5ko6_1280.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1488767051284-HWKGU846GEV3AAQYCH03/bb+web-1.jpg Shoots BB Shoemaker. Hallett Cove, SA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1488767138219-EV7MZOG8IW91HHDJVGLS/bb+web-7.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1488767155413-GQSZ8YLXI5L3GK0DHJQP/bb+web-8.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1488767039599-5A40LCBCLH95BMB22DND/bb+web-2.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1488767220806-TY9SN2GUJ531AO26Y5AQ/bb+web-10.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1488767079776-WTXU6UD9EPWW408BA0R9/bb+web-3.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1488767219274-QIRKGMNP739JAJL8S7OX/bb+web-11.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1488767097332-TVUY4UMOWHIG2NMX8ASS/bb+web-6.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1488767354512-HHAU5TT6MS9QOZKKO6SW/borders+web-4-2.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1488767254830-1BIFCKPNL10Q6H1KM80F/bb+web-12.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464238555503-K004TWO307F3XZLZCQBI/julie2.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1488767283494-8VAJ8H1H8YOOP7AF26S4/borders+web-2-2.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464237927915-M04RKAFNN5858SBBF7NJ/tumblr_nalfh3X23W1tjo8wjo1_1280.jpg Shoots Nick & Marianne. Flinders Ranges, SA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464237914204-RBQIDC9U15FCCWJ8GF7J/tumblr_nal1o2xgPL1tjo8wjo1_1280.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464237902981-FUSZC1ZNN8XJNK97CP8R/tumblr_na37fhfQBr1tjo8wjo1_1280.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464237923188-KSVCJPKWIFV38PAIMUD7/tumblr_nal7rv1KFV1tjo8wjo1_1280.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464237913875-M6PA580GND9M24JZ2OKC/tumblr_nah8vqWYky1tjo8wjo1_1280.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464237830637-Y9YI1ERI9XP8S4DXC5LJ/tumblr_nyxlgg1S3X1sxov5ko1_r1_1280.jpg Shoots Tiff Manuell https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464237815122-6F6M0017J4F734MVUXFX/tumblr_nyxlgg1S3X1sxov5ko2_1280.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464237864259-0XHW759XHJHNWGXUD7T3/tumblr_nyxlgg1S3X1sxov5ko5_1280.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464238549042-F1HR2D3BEXVGKZP9RP1T/Julie-1.jpg Shoots Designer Julie White. Adelaide, SA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464239015532-6QRJ16L81DMC4TFQIXS5/Julie5.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464830473585-6K46GEFN8KWGGOGQPSSO/000010.jpg Shoots Designer Alice Rawlinson, for Vege Threads. Mount Lofty Botanic Gardens, SA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464830511106-5SBAV6TOXMX44OYH2EP6/000006-Recovered.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464764846394-RGAAK35GF53AV46QV2SY/000007.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464764399752-C2SNKL428LYO4K1YDJGM/000002.jpg Shoots https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464764560152-XB28USQ4B32GV7YS0EW6/000002-2.jpg Shoots http://www.eloisefuss.com/stories-witches-camp daily 0.75 2016-06-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464240020673-2HUJ1PASGJJOR2P0DUSP/the+witches+camp.jpg Witches Ghana's witches of Gambaga   Sainata Nabu stands before the chief of the Gambaga witches camp. He slaughters her fowl and waits for it to fall. If it falls backwards, she is innocent and can return to her village. But Sainata’s fowl falls face down- she is guilty of witchcraft. One week later I meet Sainata. With leathery hands tightly clenching a faded skirt and shoulders curling into her body, Sainata turns her head away and speaks softly to the ground. “The boy said he saw me in his dream stealing the soul of another boy, then he had another dream where I stood over him, wanting to kill him. If I didn’t come to Gambaga I would have been killed,” she says. Sainata is one of 3000 women seeking refuge in one of six main witches’ camps in Northern Ghana, an arid region steeped in pagan traditions. In Gambaga, cauldrons boil and brush brooms scratch against the dirt. Women from as far as Burkina Faso and Togo sit coated in their crackled skin, talking quietly and gazing up when you pass. But warts do not bubble on their noses and there are no stares filled with spells. Sitting with the women and their translator on small wooden stools, I realize that these boiling pots and broomsticks aren’t the evidence of witchcraft but simply tools of life for vulnerable women suffering the consequence of lack of education. Ghanaians fear witches and blame them for all sorts of misery – from a flooded farm to an infertile woman, a barren cocoa tree to a cheating husband. Education about illness and disease rarely reaches these small rural villages. There are no autopsies to explain a sudden death, no labels to put on a child’s crooked legs or an old woman’s strange behaviour. ‘Witchcraft’ gives meaning to the mysterious. Cirato Tindola arrived in the camp thirty-one years ago after she was blamed for her niece’s violent and sporadic shaking. Instead of epilepsy; her family saw witchcraft. By the time the girl became healthy again, Cirato’s husband had divorced her and she had been pushed out of the village by death threats. Like Sainata Nabu, Tachilla Mortara’s witchcraft materialized in a child’s imagination. Her fingers clicking the beads on her wrist, Tachilla tells how her husband died and she refused her family’s attempts to remarry her. The beads crescendo in their click, clicking with her words. “The man who wanted to marry me became chief. One day, because I had been getting good yield and feeding my children on my own, he said he’d show me a lesson.” Tachilla was called to the chief’s palace where there was a small girl covered in a cloth to hide her identity. The girl said she had a dream that Tachilla was a witch. The chief insisted she leave and her village was ‘wicked’ to her. Tachilla’s tale, hard and factual, becomes broken by small sighs. Her daughter leans across her knees, eyes big and brown, snot dribbling onto her red ripped shirt. Like Ghana itself, nothing is simple here. Amongst a choir of innocent proclamations, comes a voice like Zenabu Surge, who announces through a crooked grin ‘I am a witch.’ Zanabu tells about a quarrel between her sick nephew and her son. Zanubu separated them and punches turned to insults between her and the displeased nephew. Three days later her nephew died. ‘He was like this colour’ she says and points to the faded yellow watering can. “People in the community said it was a fever and I had wished it upon him. I accepted and came to Gambaga.” “Whatever I say comes true. Perhaps it is because of god, I don’t know,” she says and slips inside her hut amongst the scattered seeds, bowls and bags, and a small rolled up mattress. Whilst women in some camps are exploited as servants to a chief who is thought to control their powers; Gambaga is more co-operative. The strong ones help the weak and their children attend the local school, away from the prejudice of their village. They have clean water and earn money for food by helping farmers with seeding and harvest, carrying firewood and selling groundnuts. A woman sings as she sits cracking nuts, children chase each other with a cardboard box and a man rides past on his bike, carrying a goat. The air in Gambaga is surprisingly clear of spook and gloom. “I prefer to call it a home, not a camp,” says Gladys Cabiba Mohamma, the kind eyed ‘Presbyterian outcast-home-attendant’ who drives in on her motorbike each day. Despite her optimistic words, she is determined to help these women return to their communities. A group of NGOs banded together in 1994, she tells me, organizing workshops in villages, trying to punch holes in the myth of witchcraft. Allegations could be mere dreams. A woman’s strange behaviour could be due to malaria, or menopause or Alzheimers. They put up posters that exclaimed ‘it is illegal to allege a woman is a witch'. It worked, the numbers of women arriving at the camps fell - then the program was halted and the accusations began to flow again - around the baobab trees and past the wizards – because men only use their powers for good, of course. Gladys knows that whatever they do, many of these women will spend the rest of their lives in Gambaga, cut off from their relatives and their past. The sun gets sleepy and the translator yawns. Ignoring a sandpaper mouth, dirt-lined eyes and stomach tight with hunger, I try to untangle the bundle of contradicting tales – hope and hopelessness, contentment and resentment, guilt and innocence – and wonder, which witch is which? *First published in Frankie magazine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464240020673-2HUJ1PASGJJOR2P0DUSP/the+witches+camp.jpg Witches Ghana's witches of Gambaga   Sainata Nabu stands before the chief of the Gambaga witches camp. He slaughters her fowl and waits for it to fall. If it falls backwards, she is innocent and can return to her village. But Sainata’s fowl falls face down- she is guilty of witchcraft. One week later I meet Sainata. With leathery hands tightly clenching a faded skirt and shoulders curling into her body, Sainata turns her head away and speaks softly to the ground. “The boy said he saw me in his dream stealing the soul of another boy, then he had another dream where I stood over him, wanting to kill him. If I didn’t come to Gambaga I would have been killed,” she says. Sainata is one of 3000 women seeking refuge in one of six main witches’ camps in Northern Ghana, an arid region steeped in pagan traditions. In Gambaga, cauldrons boil and brush brooms scratch against the dirt. Women from as far as Burkina Faso and Togo sit coated in their crackled skin, talking quietly and gazing up when you pass. But warts do not bubble on their noses and there are no stares filled with spells. Sitting with the women and their translator on small wooden stools, I realize that these boiling pots and broomsticks aren’t the evidence of witchcraft but simply tools of life for vulnerable women suffering the consequence of lack of education. Ghanaians fear witches and blame them for all sorts of misery – from a flooded farm to an infertile woman, a barren cocoa tree to a cheating husband. Education about illness and disease rarely reaches these small rural villages. There are no autopsies to explain a sudden death, no labels to put on a child’s crooked legs or an old woman’s strange behaviour. ‘Witchcraft’ gives meaning to the mysterious. Cirato Tindola arrived in the camp thirty-one years ago after she was blamed for her niece’s violent and sporadic shaking. Instead of epilepsy; her family saw witchcraft. By the time the girl became healthy again, Cirato’s husband had divorced her and she had been pushed out of the village by death threats. Like Sainata Nabu, Tachilla Mortara’s witchcraft materialized in a child’s imagination. Her fingers clicking the beads on her wrist, Tachilla tells how her husband died and she refused her family’s attempts to remarry her. The beads crescendo in their click, clicking with her words. “The man who wanted to marry me became chief. One day, because I had been getting good yield and feeding my children on my own, he said he’d show me a lesson.” Tachilla was called to the chief’s palace where there was a small girl covered in a cloth to hide her identity. The girl said she had a dream that Tachilla was a witch. The chief insisted she leave and her village was ‘wicked’ to her. Tachilla’s tale, hard and factual, becomes broken by small sighs. Her daughter leans across her knees, eyes big and brown, snot dribbling onto her red ripped shirt. Like Ghana itself, nothing is simple here. Amongst a choir of innocent proclamations, comes a voice like Zenabu Surge, who announces through a crooked grin ‘I am a witch.’ Zanabu tells about a quarrel between her sick nephew and her son. Zanubu separated them and punches turned to insults between her and the displeased nephew. Three days later her nephew died. ‘He was like this colour’ she says and points to the faded yellow watering can. “People in the community said it was a fever and I had wished it upon him. I accepted and came to Gambaga.” “Whatever I say comes true. Perhaps it is because of god, I don’t know,” she says and slips inside her hut amongst the scattered seeds, bowls and bags, and a small rolled up mattress. Whilst women in some camps are exploited as servants to a chief who is thought to control their powers; Gambaga is more co-operative. The strong ones help the weak and their children attend the local school, away from the prejudice of their village. They have clean water and earn money for food by helping farmers with seeding and harvest, carrying firewood and selling groundnuts. A woman sings as she sits cracking nuts, children chase each other with a cardboard box and a man rides past on his bike, carrying a goat. The air in Gambaga is surprisingly clear of spook and gloom. “I prefer to call it a home, not a camp,” says Gladys Cabiba Mohamma, the kind eyed ‘Presbyterian outcast-home-attendant’ who drives in on her motorbike each day. Despite her optimistic words, she is determined to help these women return to their communities. A group of NGOs banded together in 1994, she tells me, organizing workshops in villages, trying to punch holes in the myth of witchcraft. Allegations could be mere dreams. A woman’s strange behaviour could be due to malaria, or menopause or Alzheimers. They put up posters that exclaimed ‘it is illegal to allege a woman is a witch'. It worked, the numbers of women arriving at the camps fell - then the program was halted and the accusations began to flow again - around the baobab trees and past the wizards – because men only use their powers for good, of course. Gladys knows that whatever they do, many of these women will spend the rest of their lives in Gambaga, cut off from their relatives and their past. The sun gets sleepy and the translator yawns. Ignoring a sandpaper mouth, dirt-lined eyes and stomach tight with hunger, I try to untangle the bundle of contradicting tales – hope and hopelessness, contentment and resentment, guilt and innocence – and wonder, which witch is which? *First published in Frankie magazine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464240005812-ZZCKNUTNB3HVUW1E3OFV/jugs.jpg Witches https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464239866031-ADS7RD3Q0NS15DX8AC9N/2050-02eloise.jpg Witches https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464239864015-EI6OBW1G0T6EVVIT27S7/2050-05eloise.jpg Witches https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464239888731-W2YCYC7ZZ05XX7Q13QTV/2050-06eloise.jpg Witches https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1464239895424-KHXVV6VDQRSL8QV8P914/2050-10eloise.jpg Witches 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Each scene is laden with a thick fog of moments in that same spot that have come before - sometimes long ago. I spent 18 years of my life here - still more than half. And each summer I come back, borrow a ute from my parent’s farm, and drive to the same spots we went over and over again when were kids and teenagers. It’s been surreal, flying in from Sydney and its densely packed beaches (at first it was a novelty, being at a busy beach, like those scenes from tv shows growing up), and then suddenly you’re back here driving along dirt tracks between dusty paddocks filled with headers, to arrive atop vast limestone cliffs overlooking empty magical beaches. And that water! Which glimmers, more clear and crisp than any ocean I’d seen on the east coast (or in the world, which any local already knows). I tell people about this place, so far away from where they are that most will never visit - “it’s far enough from a capital city it’s still got this beautiful wildness,” I explain. For a few years living next to the Sydney Harbour, in one of the county’s densest suburbs, I’d go and sit on the seawall in the night-time - a ledge separating expensive art-deco apartments bright with night-time lights, and hundreds of bobbing, whirring boats. But the sound of the inky water sloshing below, the briny smell, and the small wooden jetty I could glimpse over to the right (protruding from some millionaire’s fenced-off property), my senses so vividly evoked a deep familiarity, from within the context of the unfamiliar. For a brief moment, this snippet of Sydney felt just like Coffin Bay. Living in dense urban spots, I’d sometimes find myself reflecting, “I was reared by nature” - it’s impossible to avoid being immersed in it here, where the land and coast expansively exceeds the rows of streets. The EP, it might not ever be home for me again, but it will always be my ‘homeland’. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698367793701-KHKV9QQ8SQDMNUR1R2ZA/IMG_3823.jpg Homeland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685361403024-ALNYPX2QU196ZKPU4UU5/IMG_3826.jpg Homeland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685361518356-IYD7HSIYY2VCEMHX6INP/IMG_3835.jpg Homeland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685361102356-PK2ND7IO5SKCJSOP4H5Q/IMG_3817.jpg Homeland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685361394824-Q6ZH1Y9KB0GE11UGNAFX/IMG_3825.jpg Homeland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685361146907-FC49W099WMPDKT2MLJX0/IMG_3822.jpg Homeland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685361530547-VLXI8S75C0GGIZ2519HA/IMG_3837.jpg Homeland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685361589155-582036SJKWZT7NZHVIFG/IMG_3841.jpg Homeland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685361099231-QV3YH5ORVV3PJSINIM3B/IMG_3819.jpg Homeland http://www.eloisefuss.com/outback-bores daily 0.75 2023-08-06 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685495723784-AG8ODR6B9A8JWLC7FO4T/000154780001_%23%23%23.jpg Outback bores Outback NSW hot bores. Flowing with water that’s about two million years old, from the Great Artesian Basin. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685495723784-AG8ODR6B9A8JWLC7FO4T/000154780001_%23%23%23.jpg Outback bores Outback NSW hot bores. Flowing with water that’s about two million years old, from the Great Artesian Basin. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685495671897-AZ1JOGRUIG8U0ATLCG9E/000154760009_%23%23%23.jpg Outback bores https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685495571764-3ODO5XUYZKLJGMEOZ9LE/000154750005_%23%23%23.jpg Outback bores https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685495583802-66T9CJL8AUDFODHSI8XT/000154750002_%23%23%23.jpg Outback bores https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685495649959-LAC87QUA2QYK58CNVF33/000154760004_%23%23%23.jpg Outback bores https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685495691363-TAND21J8O92EU6DQXQPA/000154770003_%23%23%23.jpg Outback bores https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685495666636-EU0YJYXPE9D8K7VQXPE1/000154760007_%23%23%23.jpg Outback bores https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685495767205-HY1R2916P1IK1OO3T58Q/000154790006_%23%23%23%281%29.jpg Outback bores https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685495587266-LX3FRYAA27SAKX61SRXO/000154750007_%23%23%23.jpg Outback bores https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685495698999-ZI3MS8LFKCF2XW2M2F50/000154770006_%23%23%23.jpg Outback bores https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685499273936-50X7DMDLQ89FHBKANMRB/000154750006_%23%23%23%281%29.jpg Outback bores https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685499470349-HG4M4EBAKT0ANCWC8KR1/000154750003_%23%23%23.jpg Outback bores https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685495759648-PHSZFY1JTV8MGV2CCNGL/000154790008_%23%23%23.jpg Outback bores https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685495722188-HI0O6U2VCJLHD3SJZACM/000154780002_%23%23%23.jpg Outback bores https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685495659458-N7FQ9N0PERQEPAQSQMIE/000154760006_%23%23%23.jpg Outback bores https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685495737036-5SGHCRLRD8DQM0L7YEQ5/000154780007_%23%23%23.jpg Outback bores http://www.eloisefuss.com/driving daily 0.75 2023-05-31 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685500640921-UTXT2Y83V3D1SH2FRP59/IMG_1833.JPG Driving https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685500640921-UTXT2Y83V3D1SH2FRP59/IMG_1833.JPG Driving https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685500628331-8N83PLLGH97HQTWS3X95/IMG_1831.JPG Driving https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685500674517-0GNFO6NI4K04GUKJDZRS/IMG_1836.JPG Driving https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685500690302-RRBCDXTO1H2BQQE0045A/IMG_1842.JPG Driving https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685500672631-BAIQTN4GM0WILSYRG30G/IMG_1835.JPG Driving https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1685500661129-X0W6N35P1HDN6W7P71SI/IMG_1777.JPG Driving http://www.eloisefuss.com/opals daily 0.75 2024-03-13 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698370229389-RUHED1NFCZO9ONOP1U3Z/000001.JPG 'Cal the Stoner' - outback artist, Andamooka SA ‘Cal the Stoner’, outback artist, Andamooka SA (WIP / images unedited) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698370229389-RUHED1NFCZO9ONOP1U3Z/000001.JPG 'Cal the Stoner' - outback artist, Andamooka SA ‘Cal the Stoner’, outback artist, Andamooka SA (WIP / images unedited) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698370346981-5TMMYWAI2OPS3158OWTO/000009.JPG 'Cal the Stoner' - outback artist, Andamooka SA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698370440257-XQS7Y37ZFDQOMPMCMLLX/000006.JPG 'Cal the Stoner' - outback artist, Andamooka SA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698371311608-LGABP1EW8FNATTGUDFCM/000008.JPG 'Cal the Stoner' - outback artist, Andamooka SA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698370326386-2AVJ5RJ9X6HK23RB73IO/000008.JPG 'Cal the Stoner' - outback artist, Andamooka SA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698370285633-XAWXYVYB96WG2OJXN33Z/000006.JPG 'Cal the Stoner' - outback artist, Andamooka SA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698370736878-MZI9J2AI06A93AE9QXM6/000002.JPG 'Cal the Stoner' - outback artist, Andamooka SA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698370256106-0UAZ5C8ZT306U4H9DOXP/000003.JPG 'Cal the Stoner' - outback artist, Andamooka SA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698371522232-Z4ER6VQH0MNWG1GBU029/000005.JPG 'Cal the Stoner' - outback artist, Andamooka SA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698370321798-0ZKOD9O8OXS0ZBS5LP0K/000007.JPG 'Cal the Stoner' - outback artist, Andamooka SA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698370255280-TW1I7OSD0EL9GGROVLVW/000004.JPG 'Cal the Stoner' - outback artist, Andamooka SA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698371234478-1F1FOZ5YMNPI3EQI1809/000001.JPG 'Cal the Stoner' - outback artist, Andamooka SA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698370411469-H2IMBJYFMWZ0YPBKY8K3/000005.JPG 'Cal the Stoner' - outback artist, Andamooka SA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698370467052-B3P1XGXJ2ZVLC83LHKBZ/000009.JPG 'Cal the Stoner' - outback artist, Andamooka SA https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698370348781-XXRICMES6PFCWH6XEAPR/000001.JPG 'Cal the Stoner' - outback artist, Andamooka SA http://www.eloisefuss.com/white-cliffs daily 0.75 2023-10-31 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698372976102-4OSL55KFH9ACBETEHSW1/000004.jpg White Cliffs White Cliffs, NSW. Barkindji Country (images unedited) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698372976102-4OSL55KFH9ACBETEHSW1/000004.jpg White Cliffs White Cliffs, NSW. Barkindji Country (images unedited) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698372153698-CZTIQW5V6RG8Y49N9KN9/000002.jpg White Cliffs https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698373025234-6E4FFAJZE6YVT01LUY87/000003.jpg White Cliffs https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698373081119-G6ZPZDLZ92AW6FQWAJWN/000003.jpg White Cliffs https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698373394875-7RSWVIEA8DFXBVUQNKAG/000005.jpg White Cliffs https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698373146533-C9V1XUMZ6H6WRJGFP9VT/000007.jpg White Cliffs https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698373218973-W6F4HGC5XKVIOGLU72U0/000002.jpg White Cliffs https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698372634736-A6TB7UVLVYNGSK7A2AJG/000005.jpg White Cliffs https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5743aed82eeb819f78e9abe5/1698715102535-KOZ5SLG436PWA4D10F92/000001.jpg White Cliffs